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Old 02/21/2010, 02:38 PM   #1
importsusa
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Location: South DSM,IA
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Default ACCORD CAPTIVE ROTORS

I want to first off give Lomma515 thanks for letting us use his vehicle as the visual for this DIY.

Ok, well as all you Accord guys may know changing rotors on your vehicles is a little more difficult then on a standard civic, integra etc. Certain Accords have what is called a CAPTIVE ROTOR SYSTEM, this means that instead of the wheel hub being behind the rotor....it is actually placed in front of the rotor. This system can be a pain on both your bottom end and your wallet.

So, I decided to give you all two choices that can save you money or at least be affordable to fix through us. The first choice will be the one depicted below in a step by step.......second choice is the one where I get involved and fix it for an affordable fee.


For starters, please make sure you have the necessary tools to perform this job, without them you will find yourself with a huge amount of headaches. You will want to have a small air compressor, maybe an impact gun (for quickness), an air hammer, a jack and jackstands, and some Advil or Tylenol....lol

WARNING: If you have no idea what some of these items are or have no access to them.....just read on but do not perform any of these procedures (we will not be held liable for injury or damage to vehicle). Also, please make sure you leave enough time to do this....this is in no way an easy 1 hour fix......will take you awhile if you don't have the proper tools.

TOOLS and LUBRICANT/LIQUIDS NEEDED:


1. AIR HAMMER
2. COTTER PINS (used ofr castle nuts)
3. BIG boy hammer..lol
4. SMALL boy hammer for axle nut notch
5. pointed chisel
6. 36mm socket for axle nut
7. Caliper piston compressor and small socket to go inside piston
8. 10mm wrench
9. 17mm 1/2 (used for upper/lower arm castle nuts and tie rod end nut)
10. 10mm & 12mm sockets
11. 1/2in drive extensions (i used 12 to minimize breaking of tools when applying force.)
12. 1/2in wratchet wrench
13. needle nose pliers
14. 3/4 in extension with wratchet
15. regular 14mm bolts (these will be used later on to press out the bearing and hub away
from the assembly.)
16. (NOT PICTURED) Get a couple 4-5 bungee cords for holding things in place.
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The following steps will not be shown since you guys should already know how to jack up a car and put it on jackstands.

Next take your wheels off and set them to the side along with lug nuts.

Before moving forward with removing everything from around..........take a few minutes to bend out the little notch on the axle nut. I used a pointed chisel and hammer to push it out so that the nut can rotate when you apply a socket on it or impact gun with socket. Try removing the axle nut first and have a buddy apply the brakes to hold the assembly so it does not rotate.

Breaking loose the axle nut is definately the main thing you want to concentrate on before moving on to anything else, if not the assembly will not come apart and you'll be stuck!!




Ok, assuming you have already got the axle nut out and all is good and ready.......now is time for the fun to begin.


Start by removing bolts from brake line and ABS sensor (if applicable).


THESE BOTH NEED THE USE OF THE 10MM SOCKET



The pic below is the ABS sensor to the left of the brake assembly.......this is where you need the 12mm socket.


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Next, start removing the caliper and the bracket holding it in place: Make sure to use the Bungee cords to hold the caliper up and not let it hang by the brake line.




Bolts I have with arrows here need to be removed in order to remove the entire caliper off. You can also go ahead and remove the cotter pin and castle nut on the lower control arm.


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Now, many people out there will tell do these next steps differently.......this is where you need to be careful and not damage parts. The nexts steps require you to remove the upper control arm and tie rod end cotter pins and castle nuts. Once removed I go ahead and beat the arm out a couple times until the assembly comes loose.
Start with the lower control arm until loose....then follow to the tie rod ends and last the upper control arm.
NOW, assuming again you have beat them properly and not damaged something by accident now you can take the entire upper control arm assembly off with rotor/hub all in one.....

cotter pin.....throw old one out and replace later on with new:










Once all the castle nuts are out the picture below will be what the next steps will look like:





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Last edited by importsusa; 03/27/2011 at 10:25 PM.

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