ACCORD CAPTIVE ROTORS

importsusa · 02/21/2010, 02:38 PM

I want to first off give Lomma515 thanks for letting us use his vehicle as the visual for this DIY.

Ok, well as all you Accord guys may know changing rotors on your vehicles is a little more difficult then on a standard civic, integra etc. Certain Accords have what is called a CAPTIVE ROTOR SYSTEM, this means that instead of the wheel hub being behind the rotor....it is actually placed in front of the rotor. This system can be a pain on both your bottom end

and your wallet.

So, I decided to give you all two choices that can save you money or at least be affordable to fix through us. The first choice will be the one depicted below in a step by step.......second choice is the one where I get involved and fix it for an affordable fee.

For starters, please make sure you have the necessary tools to perform this job, without them you will find yourself with a huge amount of headaches. You will want to have a small air compressor, maybe an impact gun (for quickness), an air hammer, a jack and jackstands, and some Advil or Tylenol....lol

WARNING: If you have no idea what some of these items are or have no access to them.....just read on but do not perform any of these procedures (we will not be held liable for injury or damage to vehicle). Also, please make sure you leave enough time to do this....this is in no way an easy 1 hour fix......will take you awhile if you don't have the proper tools.

TOOLS and LUBRICANT/LIQUIDS NEEDED:

1. AIR HAMMER
2. COTTER PINS (used ofr castle nuts)
3. BIG boy hammer..lol
4. SMALL boy hammer for axle nut notch
5. pointed chisel
6. 36mm socket for axle nut
7. Caliper piston compressor and small socket to go inside piston
8. 10mm wrench
9. 17mm 1/2 (used for upper/lower arm castle nuts and tie rod end nut)
10. 10mm & 12mm sockets
11. 1/2in drive extensions (i used 12 to minimize breaking of tools when applying force.)
12. 1/2in wratchet wrench
13. needle nose pliers
14. 3/4 in extension with wratchet
15. regular 14mm bolts (these will be used later on to press out the bearing and hub away
from the assembly.)
16. (NOT PICTURED) Get a couple 4-5 bungee cords for holding things in place.
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The following steps will not be shown since you guys should already know how to jack up a car and put it on jackstands.

Next take your wheels off and set them to the side along with lug nuts.

Before moving forward with removing everything from around..........take a few minutes to bend out the little notch on the axle nut. I used a pointed chisel and hammer to push it out so that the nut can rotate when you apply a socket on it or impact gun with socket. Try removing the axle nut first and have a buddy apply the brakes to hold the assembly so it does not rotate.

Breaking loose the axle nut is definately the main thing you want to concentrate on before moving on to anything else, if not the assembly will not come apart and you'll be stuck!!

Ok, assuming you have already got the axle nut out and all is good and ready.......now is time for the fun to begin.

Start by removing bolts from brake line and ABS sensor (if applicable).

THESE BOTH NEED THE USE OF THE 10MM SOCKET

The pic below is the ABS sensor to the left of the brake assembly.......this is where you need the 12mm socket.

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Next, start removing the caliper and the bracket holding it in place: Make sure to use the Bungee cords to hold the caliper up and not let it hang by the brake line.

Bolts I have with arrows here need to be removed in order to remove the entire caliper off. You can also go ahead and remove the cotter pin and castle nut on the lower control arm.

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Now, many people out there will tell do these next steps differently.......this is where you need to be careful and not damage parts. The nexts steps require you to remove the upper control arm and tie rod end cotter pins and castle nuts. Once removed I go ahead and beat the arm out a couple times until the assembly comes loose.
Start with the lower control arm until loose....then follow to the tie rod ends and last the upper control arm.
NOW, assuming again you have beat them properly and not damaged something by accident now you can take the entire upper control arm assembly off with rotor/hub all in one.....

cotter pin.....throw old one out and replace later on with new:

Once all the castle nuts are out the picture below will be what the next steps will look like:

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importsusa · 02/21/2010, 02:55 PM

Now, unfortunately on Lom's car we found that it had a couple of issues..........they were basically dealing with a broken CV boot and tie rod end boot. These issues can be addressed while doing this job since everything has to come out. Again, just make sure you have plenty of time to work on it all and always ask a buddy to help.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Now, once the assembly is off the vehicle you will notice that it has four bolts on the back side.
Make sure to remove these and place the entire assembly on a vise to hold it tight for the next steps:

Once the bolts are removed and the assembly is secured on a vise..........get two random bolts that are longer then the ones you took out and have the same thread. Screw them in opposite of each other.
The picture shows where they can be...........now with the air hammer OR a regular hammer go back and forth between each bolt. You will notice the hub/rotor assembly slowly move out of the housing.

Once they come off you can now remove the four bolts from the front of the hub/rotor.......you'll be able to then pull the rotor and hub/bearing assembly apart. Please keep in mind that again, this is a good time to replace your wheel bearing if it is bad.

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importsusa · 02/21/2010, 03:15 PM

Now, if the bearing is still good and can be reused (in Lom's case it was) then take a few minutes to clean the inner Knuckle assembly it came out off and the bearing itself. You can also take some axle grease and lube up the parts that are going back together later on.

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NOW, you have two choices for the rotors:

You can get brand spanking new ones or have them turned at a machine shop. In Lom's case we started with machining but soon found out his passenger side was warped and could not be turned. So we opted to just go brand new on them to minimize any future problems. Picture below shows the rotor that was machined and the one that kicked the bucket.

Once you have determined what you want for your rotors etc. (could also be aftermarket) it is time to reassemble everything back on. First off, make sure you rebolt the hub/bearing back on to the new rotor.

Before sticking everything back on to the Knuckle........make sure the bearing matches the shape....these are pointed below just make sure everything is aligned properly or you'll have some fun time trying to get everything back apart.

Next grab the four bolts you took off the back from earlier and thread them in by hand. The next step is just like when you were taking the hub off except you are trying to get the assembly back in. Go back and forth between the bolts in a criss cross pattern until the bearing is fully seated in place.

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Once both sides are done it is time to reverse the disassembly procedure from the beginning...........at this point you are putting back everything you took off....tie rod & bolt, upper arm & bolt...etc. etc.

Once tyou have everything back in an snugged.........make sure to reassemble the Caliper assembly back on to the Knuckle behind the rotor.

Now, make sure not to forget to torque the axle nut back in and beat it with the SMALL BOY hammer...lol

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importsusa · 02/21/2010, 03:36 PM

Now comes the easy stuff:

Start prepping the brake pads, spray them and let them dry for 2-3 minutes ........and also take a few minutes to shoot some brake cleaner onto the rotor ( YOU DO NOT WANT ANY OIL ON THEM AT ALL).

Next, Take the caliper compressor tooland socket...place them inside the caliper. Take the 10mm wrench and open up the bleeder valve on the caliper just enough to let the fluid out. Start turning the caliper tool and compress the caliper back into the housing slowly. By opening up the bleeder valve, it prevents damage to the master cylinder because of the pressure you are applying to it with the tool.

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Now you can start putting the pads back in................place the caliper back into place and tighten the bolts down......always ensure that the rotor stays clean and not full of greasy hand prints.

Once everything is complete...............double check that everything is tight, cotter pins are in place, axle nut has notch beat in, brake lines secured bolts on hub are tightened etc. etc.

THE LAST STEPS ON THIS LITTLE PROJECT REQUIRE EITHER A FRIEND OR A BRAKE BLEEDER.
I OPTED TO USE MY WIFE AS THE HELPER............HAD HER PUMP THE BRAKES THREE TIMES..........THE THIRD TIME LEAVING IT IN ALL THE WAY. At that point you open the bleeder valve on the caliper and let the pressure out. Do the same until no air comes out or the brake pedal starts getting harder and harder......also make sure you are adding brake fluid to the master cylinder while getting this precedure done.

Once you feel the brake pedal get harder it is now time to put the wheels back on!!!

Tighten everything to specs..........lower the car...............and take a small ride around your street to ensure you have no big issues, weird sounds, etc.
DO NOT GO FAST FOR THIS......IF SOMETHING IS WRONG, well lets just say you'll find out the hard way!!!

So, that is it..................you have completed a job that normally would pull shit loads of money out of your pocket to do.

FOR THOSE OF YOU NOT WANTING TO TACKLE THIS PROJECT....YOU KNOW WHO TO CALL OR PM. I HAVE A SET PRICE FOR THESE AND SHOULD ONLY TAKE A DAY TO DO UNLESS THE MACHINE SHOP IS BUSY!!!

ENJOY AND DRIVE SAFELY!!

heeltoehonda · 02/21/2010, 08:56 PM

Nice write up

, I had no idea accords had brakes like this.

importsusa · 02/21/2010, 09:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by heeltoehonda

Nice write up

, I had no idea accords had brakes like this.

Thanks mike.....and yeah seems to be a pain in the butt for some people which end up paying a crap load for this job. I am able to keep it affordable for everyone and also teach others how to save money if they try it on their own.

In the end though it all comes down to who is willing to do this or just pay someone else to do it.

gabebauman · 02/21/2010, 11:05 PM

Now that's a DIY thread. Killer Job Rodnie.

importsusa · 02/21/2010, 11:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gabebauman

Now that's a DIY thread. Killer Job Rodnie.

Thanks Gabe....believe it or not it was your old SIG that inspired me to get this going......

"Dude are you Gabe Bauman? Yup thats me....the DIY KING!!"

Just get tired of people gettting ripped off by shops out there..........this way both the DIY crowd can do it, save up and the ones willing to pay for my service at least know it won't rip their wallets out of tons of money.

heeltoehonda · 02/22/2010, 08:14 AM

Hey Rodnie, do you know what gen. Accords have this kind of brake set up?

importsusa · 02/22/2010, 09:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by heeltoehonda

Hey Rodnie, do you know what gen. Accords have this kind of brake set up?

I encourage someone to correct me if I'm wrong, but I do believe it is 90-99 accords.....but not entirely sure, Lom's accord is a 96.

heeltoehonda · 02/22/2010, 10:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by importsusa

I encourage someone to correct me if I'm wrong, but I do believe it is 90-99 accords.....but not entirely sure, Lom's accord is a 96.

Ok thanks, I'll keep that in mind. The only reason I'm asking is because I will try to avoid them if possible, lol. Those look like a pain to replace compared to an integra or civic.

importsusa · 02/22/2010, 11:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by heeltoehonda

Ok thanks, I'll keep that in mind. The only reason I'm asking is because I will try to avoid them if possible, lol. Those look like a pain to replace compared to an integra or civic.

LOL yeah, wasn't the greatest in the world but it was fun to do. I'd like people that don't wanna do It to step my way......I will make sure they get good service at an affordable price.

benstuh · 02/22/2010, 01:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by importsusa

I encourage someone to correct me if I'm wrong, but I do believe it is 90-99 accords.....but not entirely sure, Lom's accord is a 96.

lol nice write up rodnie!

Im not sure but i think its 90-97 the 4th and 5th generation accords

deadmoans · 02/22/2010, 01:42 PM

99's don't have this set up, I know because I had one. 1997 was the last year of that stupid fucked up design!!!

It is an expensive brake job!!!!!!

ChunKy · 02/22/2010, 05:46 PM

ya i had so much trouble with my accord rotors when i had them! i finally gave up and sent my car to the ghetto detroit shop, it was 70for the labor but it got the job done

shuold of post 2 years ago :P

btw VERY NICE WRITE UP!!!

importsusa · 02/22/2010, 08:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by benstuh

lol nice write up rodnie!

Im not sure but i think its 90-97 the 4th and 5th generation accords

Thanks man.........and I kinda figured I was off by a few years.

Quote:

Originally Posted by deadmoans

99's don't have this set up, I know because I had one. 1997 was the last year of that stupid fucked up design!!!

It is an expensive brake job!!!!!!

Thanks for the info Kelly....and yeah I remember that accord from way back in the day. Yeah, this design was obviously one that Honda just totally F-up on........took the simplest of jobs and turned it into a monster...lol

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chunky

ya i had so much trouble with my accord rotors when i had them! i finally gave up and sent my car to the ghetto detroit shop, it was 70for the labor but it got the job done

shuold of post 2 years ago :P

btw VERY NICE WRITE UP!!!

Thanks Aaron, yeah I've had a few people from my own work that told me the same when they owned one of these, these guys ended up paying up the A$$ to get them done though.

RyanA · 02/25/2010, 03:58 PM

If you don't want to take the knuckle all the way off, just unbolt the ABS sensor, pop bottom ball joint and drop axle down and out of the way, then get some bolts about 1-2" longer than the ones in it. Start them in then use a BFH and whack them in a pattern like you would tighten your lug nuts. Do that until the thing pops loose. My air hammer would not touch the hub but using the bolts and BFH made short work of getting the hub/bearing out of there. I remove the ABS sensor only to ensure I don't destroy it from a bad shot with the hammer.

And yes, up to 97 got the dumb HOR (Hub over Rotor) setup. If I have to do the wagon again, I'll be doing a ROH conversion...

Nice write up.

importsusa · 02/25/2010, 04:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RCivic

If you don't want to take the knuckle all the way off, just unbolt the ABS sensor, pop bottom ball joint and drop axle down and out of the way, then get some bolts about 1-2" longer than the ones in it. Start them in then use a BFH and whack them in a pattern like you would tighten your lug nuts. Do that until the thing pops loose. My air hammer would not touch the hub but using the bolts and BFH made short work of getting the hub/bearing out of there. I remove the ABS sensor only to ensure I don't destroy it from a bad shot with the hammer.

And yes, up to 97 got the dumb HOR (Hub over Rotor) setup. If I have to do the wagon again, I'll be doing a ROH conversion...

Nice write up.

Thanks, yeah what you posted is also a good idea as well except that with everything off the vehicle its much easier to work with....not everyone has great hand eye coordination when using a hammer in a confined space.

By taking It all off you can also take the time to clean the knuckle out and paint it. If I would of spent more time with the vehicle, that would of been the case.

All in all this shows people how to take the assembly off if they ever need to replace other items within that area.

crxme · 01/19/2011, 09:44 AM

i have a 93 beater accord. thought i could do it myself til i took almost everything off and was like wTF?!?!? lol but got a good deal to get it done at a shop so i did. but good write up!

Em1LuiSiR · 03/27/2011, 11:27 AM

I had a fun time doing this. Imo people who do not have all these tools & experience. Do NOT mess with them lol.

importsusa · 03/27/2011, 09:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Em1LuiSiR

I had a fun time doing this. Imo people who do not have all these tools & experience. Do NOT mess with them lol.

Ha ha, that is why I am the most affordable for these....experience, have the tools, and most importantly i have fun doing them. I simply make it look effortless because I enjoy working on vehicles.

Main reason for making DIY's is to show those of ya who want to try it, how to go about with it. For those who have no patience, time or lots of cash.....I am here to serve.

Hope you got it all done though buddy......and hope this DIY helped.

93CB7Tuner · 04/08/2011, 10:05 PM

I see butt lube LOL. This is the reason why people avoid Accords lol.

importsusa · 04/09/2011, 11:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 93CB7Tuner

I see butt lube LOL. This is the reason why people avoid Accords lol.

LOL pretty much ends up being one of those jobs that other shops like to lube up for....lol ha ha

like stated above though.........I've managed to be the much cheaper alternative to doing these, now people can go back to Accords and not worry about these anymore.

93CB7Tuner · 04/09/2011, 04:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by importsusa

LOL pretty much ends up being one of those jobs that other shops like to lube up for....lol ha ha

like stated above though.........I've managed to be the much cheaper alternative to doing these, now people can go back to Accords and not worry about these anymore.

Might as well do a ROH conversion for us Accord guys also

importsusa · 04/10/2011, 11:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 93CB7Tuner

Might as well do a ROH conversion for us Accord guys also

You bring them in, show me what all needs done and I'll do a DIY that will make you cry....lol

02/21/2010, 02:38 PM	#1
importsusa Vinyl Specialist Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: South DSM,IA Posts: 2,868	ACCORD CAPTIVE ROTORS I want to first off give Lomma515 thanks for letting us use his vehicle as the visual for this DIY. Ok, well as all you Accord guys may know changing rotors on your vehicles is a little more difficult then on a standard civic, integra etc. Certain Accords have what is called a CAPTIVE ROTOR SYSTEM, this means that instead of the wheel hub being behind the rotor....it is actually placed in front of the rotor. This system can be a pain on both your bottom end and your wallet. So, I decided to give you all two choices that can save you money or at least be affordable to fix through us. The first choice will be the one depicted below in a step by step.......second choice is the one where I get involved and fix it for an affordable fee. For starters, please make sure you have the necessary tools to perform this job, without them you will find yourself with a huge amount of headaches. You will want to have a small air compressor, maybe an impact gun (for quickness), an air hammer, a jack and jackstands, and some Advil or Tylenol....lol WARNING: If you have no idea what some of these items are or have no access to them.....just read on but do not perform any of these procedures (we will not be held liable for injury or damage to vehicle). Also, please make sure you leave enough time to do this....this is in no way an easy 1 hour fix......will take you awhile if you don't have the proper tools. TOOLS and LUBRICANT/LIQUIDS NEEDED: 1. AIR HAMMER 2. COTTER PINS (used ofr castle nuts) 3. BIG boy hammer..lol 4. SMALL boy hammer for axle nut notch 5. pointed chisel 6. 36mm socket for axle nut 7. Caliper piston compressor and small socket to go inside piston 8. 10mm wrench 9. 17mm 1/2 (used for upper/lower arm castle nuts and tie rod end nut) 10. 10mm & 12mm sockets 11. 1/2in drive extensions (i used 12 to minimize breaking of tools when applying force.) 12. 1/2in wratchet wrench 13. needle nose pliers 14. 3/4 in extension with wratchet 15. regular 14mm bolts (these will be used later on to press out the bearing and hub away from the assembly.) 16. (NOT PICTURED) Get a couple 4-5 bungee cords for holding things in place. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The following steps will not be shown since you guys should already know how to jack up a car and put it on jackstands. Next take your wheels off and set them to the side along with lug nuts. Before moving forward with removing everything from around..........take a few minutes to bend out the little notch on the axle nut. I used a pointed chisel and hammer to push it out so that the nut can rotate when you apply a socket on it or impact gun with socket. Try removing the axle nut first and have a buddy apply the brakes to hold the assembly so it does not rotate. Breaking loose the axle nut is definately the main thing you want to concentrate on before moving on to anything else, if not the assembly will not come apart and you'll be stuck!! Ok, assuming you have already got the axle nut out and all is good and ready.......now is time for the fun to begin. Start by removing bolts from brake line and ABS sensor (if applicable). THESE BOTH NEED THE USE OF THE 10MM SOCKET The pic below is the ABS sensor to the left of the brake assembly.......this is where you need the 12mm socket. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Next, start removing the caliper and the bracket holding it in place: Make sure to use the Bungee cords to hold the caliper up and not let it hang by the brake line. Bolts I have with arrows here need to be removed in order to remove the entire caliper off. You can also go ahead and remove the cotter pin and castle nut on the lower control arm. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Now, many people out there will tell do these next steps differently.......this is where you need to be careful and not damage parts. The nexts steps require you to remove the upper control arm and tie rod end cotter pins and castle nuts. Once removed I go ahead and beat the arm out a couple times until the assembly comes loose. Start with the lower control arm until loose....then follow to the tie rod ends and last the upper control arm. NOW, assuming again you have beat them properly and not damaged something by accident now you can take the entire upper control arm assembly off with rotor/hub all in one..... cotter pin.....throw old one out and replace later on with new: Once all the castle nuts are out the picture below will be what the next steps will look like: ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Last edited by importsusa; 03/27/2011 at 10:25 PM. __________________ come check us out..............

02/21/2010, 02:55 PM	#2
importsusa Vinyl Specialist Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: South DSM,IA Posts: 2,868	Re: ACCORD CAPTIVE ROTORS Now, unfortunately on Lom's car we found that it had a couple of issues..........they were basically dealing with a broken CV boot and tie rod end boot. These issues can be addressed while doing this job since everything has to come out. Again, just make sure you have plenty of time to work on it all and always ask a buddy to help. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Now, once the assembly is off the vehicle you will notice that it has four bolts on the back side. Make sure to remove these and place the entire assembly on a vise to hold it tight for the next steps: Once the bolts are removed and the assembly is secured on a vise..........get two random bolts that are longer then the ones you took out and have the same thread. Screw them in opposite of each other. The picture shows where they can be...........now with the air hammer OR a regular hammer go back and forth between each bolt. You will notice the hub/rotor assembly slowly move out of the housing. Once they come off you can now remove the four bolts from the front of the hub/rotor.......you'll be able to then pull the rotor and hub/bearing assembly apart. Please keep in mind that again, this is a good time to replace your wheel bearing if it is bad. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ __________________ come check us out..............

02/21/2010, 03:15 PM	#3
importsusa Vinyl Specialist Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: South DSM,IA Posts: 2,868	Re: ACCORD CAPTIVE ROTORS Now, if the bearing is still good and can be reused (in Lom's case it was) then take a few minutes to clean the inner Knuckle assembly it came out off and the bearing itself. You can also take some axle grease and lube up the parts that are going back together later on. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ NOW, you have two choices for the rotors: You can get brand spanking new ones or have them turned at a machine shop. In Lom's case we started with machining but soon found out his passenger side was warped and could not be turned. So we opted to just go brand new on them to minimize any future problems. Picture below shows the rotor that was machined and the one that kicked the bucket. Once you have determined what you want for your rotors etc. (could also be aftermarket) it is time to reassemble everything back on. First off, make sure you rebolt the hub/bearing back on to the new rotor. Before sticking everything back on to the Knuckle........make sure the bearing matches the shape....these are pointed below just make sure everything is aligned properly or you'll have some fun time trying to get everything back apart. Next grab the four bolts you took off the back from earlier and thread them in by hand. The next step is just like when you were taking the hub off except you are trying to get the assembly back in. Go back and forth between the bolts in a criss cross pattern until the bearing is fully seated in place. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Once both sides are done it is time to reverse the disassembly procedure from the beginning...........at this point you are putting back everything you took off....tie rod & bolt, upper arm & bolt...etc. etc. Once tyou have everything back in an snugged.........make sure to reassemble the Caliper assembly back on to the Knuckle behind the rotor. Now, make sure not to forget to torque the axle nut back in and beat it with the SMALL BOY hammer...lol -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Last edited by importsusa; 02/21/2010 at 08:58 PM. __________________ come check us out..............

02/21/2010, 03:36 PM	#4
importsusa Vinyl Specialist Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: South DSM,IA Posts: 2,868	Re: ACCORD CAPTIVE ROTORS Now comes the easy stuff: Start prepping the brake pads, spray them and let them dry for 2-3 minutes ........and also take a few minutes to shoot some brake cleaner onto the rotor ( YOU DO NOT WANT ANY OIL ON THEM AT ALL). Next, Take the caliper compressor tooland socket...place them inside the caliper. Take the 10mm wrench and open up the bleeder valve on the caliper just enough to let the fluid out. Start turning the caliper tool and compress the caliper back into the housing slowly. By opening up the bleeder valve, it prevents damage to the master cylinder because of the pressure you are applying to it with the tool. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Now you can start putting the pads back in................place the caliper back into place and tighten the bolts down......always ensure that the rotor stays clean and not full of greasy hand prints. Once everything is complete...............double check that everything is tight, cotter pins are in place, axle nut has notch beat in, brake lines secured bolts on hub are tightened etc. etc. THE LAST STEPS ON THIS LITTLE PROJECT REQUIRE EITHER A FRIEND OR A BRAKE BLEEDER. I OPTED TO USE MY WIFE AS THE HELPER............HAD HER PUMP THE BRAKES THREE TIMES..........THE THIRD TIME LEAVING IT IN ALL THE WAY. At that point you open the bleeder valve on the caliper and let the pressure out. Do the same until no air comes out or the brake pedal starts getting harder and harder......also make sure you are adding brake fluid to the master cylinder while getting this precedure done. Once you feel the brake pedal get harder it is now time to put the wheels back on!!! Tighten everything to specs..........lower the car...............and take a small ride around your street to ensure you have no big issues, weird sounds, etc. DO NOT GO FAST FOR THIS......IF SOMETHING IS WRONG, well lets just say you'll find out the hard way!!! So, that is it..................you have completed a job that normally would pull shit loads of money out of your pocket to do. FOR THOSE OF YOU NOT WANTING TO TACKLE THIS PROJECT....YOU KNOW WHO TO CALL OR PM. I HAVE A SET PRICE FOR THESE AND SHOULD ONLY TAKE A DAY TO DO UNLESS THE MACHINE SHOP IS BUSY!!! ENJOY AND DRIVE SAFELY!! Last edited by importsusa; 02/21/2010 at 09:14 PM. __________________ come check us out..............

02/21/2010, 08:56 PM	#5
heeltoehonda JDM King Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: DSM, IA Posts: 1,064	Re: ACCORD CAPTIVE ROTORS Nice write up, I had no idea accords had brakes like this.

02/21/2010, 11:05 PM	#7
gabebauman DR. DIY Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: DSM, IA Posts: 4,314	Re: ACCORD CAPTIVE ROTORS Now that's a DIY thread. Killer Job Rodnie. __________________ FOR SALE> http://www.jdmcity.com/showthread.php?t=3858 CLICK IT> http://gabusface.blogspot.com/ PS: I cut holes in fenders...pm me.

02/22/2010, 08:14 AM	#9
heeltoehonda JDM King Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: DSM, IA Posts: 1,064	Re: ACCORD CAPTIVE ROTORS Hey Rodnie, do you know what gen. Accords have this kind of brake set up?

02/22/2010, 01:42 PM	#14
deadmoans JDM Knight Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Des Moines Posts: 589	Re: ACCORD CAPTIVE ROTORS 99's don't have this set up, I know because I had one. 1997 was the last year of that stupid fucked up design!!! It is an expensive brake job!!!!!! __________________ Cheap, Fast or Reliable, You Can Only Choose Two.

02/22/2010, 05:46 PM	#15
ChunKy my mexico Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: dead grass land Posts: 4,365	Re: ACCORD CAPTIVE ROTORS ya i had so much trouble with my accord rotors when i had them! i finally gave up and sent my car to the ghetto detroit shop, it was 70for the labor but it got the job done shuold of post 2 years ago :P btw VERY NICE WRITE UP!!! __________________ blah

02/25/2010, 03:58 PM	#17
RyanA JDM Soldier Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Missouri Posts: 215	Re: ACCORD CAPTIVE ROTORS If you don't want to take the knuckle all the way off, just unbolt the ABS sensor, pop bottom ball joint and drop axle down and out of the way, then get some bolts about 1-2" longer than the ones in it. Start them in then use a BFH and whack them in a pattern like you would tighten your lug nuts. Do that until the thing pops loose. My air hammer would not touch the hub but using the bolts and BFH made short work of getting the hub/bearing out of there. I remove the ABS sensor only to ensure I don't destroy it from a bad shot with the hammer. And yes, up to 97 got the dumb HOR (Hub over Rotor) setup. If I have to do the wagon again, I'll be doing a ROH conversion... Nice write up.

01/19/2011, 09:44 AM	#19
crxme JDM Soldier Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: in my garage Posts: 128	Re: ACCORD CAPTIVE ROTORS i have a 93 beater accord. thought i could do it myself til i took almost everything off and was like wTF?!?!? lol but got a good deal to get it done at a shop so i did. but good write up!

04/08/2011, 10:05 PM	#22
93CB7Tuner JDM Knight Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: in the city of DSM Posts: 741	Re: ACCORD CAPTIVE ROTORS I see butt lube LOL. This is the reason why people avoid Accords lol.