finally time to dig into my ef

[passwordjdmef9]

just recently started to aquire a lot of parts for my ef n no better time to work on it but winter. i pulled my b16 a week ago n begun to weld holes, n then the fun part filler.



its my first time working with filler but im getting the hang off it. while i was waiting for that to dry i wire wheeld my wheel wells to bare metal n then re-rubberized them, they look great.

a lot more to come.the whole suspension n brakes on the car are all going to be brand spankin new from bolts to bushings. also got my wheels,tires n coilovers in recently ill take some pics n post em up.

[Paint_Guy]

Looking realy gud, keep up the gud work.

[passwordjdmef9]

thanks i cant wait to finish the bay n see what the end result looks like.should be done in the next two-three weeks, waiting for parts to come in

[mr.carr]

lookin good if you need anything let me know bc im an ef nut

[jdmb18hatch]

lookin good matt

[L.A._licea]

damn..

how long you been working on this?

seems like its been forever if its the same car i'm thinking.


keep it up looks good.

[passwordjdmef9]

Originally Posted by jdmb18hatch

lookin good matt

thanks ryan i might need you to spray it when its done

[passwordjdmef9]

Originally Posted by L.A._licea

damn..

how long you been working on this?

seems like its been forever if its the same car i'm thinking.


keep it up looks good.

i have been workin on this for a long time but im just now gettin to the fun stuff thanks man

[passwordjdmef9]

waiting on chase bays brake booster delete and prop valve relocation.

[JustBrowsing]

Cool project

[heeltoehonda]

see this almost everydayshits gona be sick when its done
to the 8in wide rims its gona be sittin on

[passwordjdmef9]

Originally Posted by heeltoehonda

see this almost everydayshits gona be sick when its done
to the 8in wide rims its gona be sittin on

just went and got my shit mounted today ill post up pics later.

[passwordjdmef9]

been getting a lil further on this so i figured id update. i got my wheels mounted and balanced and i even got to stand back theyre and check each wheel after they were done earls tire did it with no problem, great shop talk to joe gilliland he'll take care of ya. on with the pics




also my coilovers came in a couple weeks ago d2 36 way fully adjustable


got some more work done as far as the tuck n shave. took my dash out so i finally got my harness out also took out the brake booster and mc. still waiting on my chase bays bb delete kit with the prop valve relocation kit.




i need to remove this mount, any ideas on the best way to do it?

[EK9TypeR]

looking good cant wait to see more progress

[heeltoehonda]

Originally Posted by passwordjdmef9

i need to remove this mount, any ideas on the best way to do it?

i think a spot weld drill bit would do the trick

i forget the address but theres a body shop supply store downtown that sells a good quality one.
i can find out the address if you need me to
dont buy one from harbor freight they suck ass:thumbsdow:

[jdmb18hatch]

^^^ IRP downtown, on the corner of 11th and cherry. 288-0297

[blacksheep]

Why are you removing that mount - looks like a tranny mount or engine mount welded to the body...If there is nothing wrong with it, work around it. Just my 2 cents worth...

[jdmb18hatch]

Originally Posted by blacksheep

Why are you removing that mount - looks like a tranny mount or engine mount welded to the body...If there is nothing wrong with it, work around it. Just my 2 cents worth...

think hes wanting to get away from B-series

[blacksheep]

Originally Posted by jdmb18hatch

think hes wanting to get away from B-series

For K series, you need to drill and bolt in a mount like the hasport kit in EF's, I believe...



Sorry, I read B16A up top in 1st post and assumed thats what was going back in.

If you are not using that mount, take a reciprocating saw (sawzall), cut it off, and then use an angle grinder to make mince meat of it.

But, if you want to buy a new tool and do it the "right" way, drill it out like mentioned above. You can also just use a drill bit and drill out the weld points...

EDIT - The above pic was to help point out where the weld points are where they were drilled out.

Also, if you are going K series, thats a cool swap. A lot of work like working around headlights, brake lines, speedo setup etc, but very cool...

[passwordjdmef9]

yeah sorry i guess i shouldve posted that im goin k, n i need that mount out so i can mount the new one. does it have to be bolt in or can i weld it to the chassis like the old one? yeah i know ive got my self into a lil bit of work. but as far as brake lines go, ive got those taken care of via chase bays. also just bought a jdm s2k cluster that ill have to get wired up if anyone knows how to do that lmk otherwise its off to ryan at rywire. thanks for the help guys, ill go by that bit when this blizzard passes

[IntegraDA05]

Originally Posted by passwordjdmef9

yeah sorry i guess i shouldve posted that im goin k, n i need that mount out so i can mount the new one. does it have to be bolt in or can i weld it to the chassis like the old one? yeah i know ive got my self into a lil bit of work. but as far as brake lines go, ive got those taken care of via chase bays. also just bought a jdm s2k cluster that ill have to get wired up if anyone knows how to do that lmk otherwise its off to ryan at rywire. thanks for the help guys, ill go by that bit when this blizzard passes

You can Weld it in or Bolt it in either or.
Weld it in then Paint the Bay for a Fresh Look.
Don't forgot to Shave also ha

[blacksheep]

regarding welding that mount, the hasport mount is aluminum, the body is steel. I would make sure you weld the mount in with the right filler rod ensure you have enough weld penetration as that is a CRUCIAL mount.

Funny story - Back in the day, I had a CRX with a B16A swap in it, this was before the hasport days. Back then Brian Gillispe owned a junkyard called Honda Auto Salvage from where I got parts - Thats what HAS Stands for in HASport, kiddies.

Anyways, the tranny mount was welded in for the B16A. I sold the car to a guy in Cedar Rapids, I think. He had it for a while and one day on the interstate, the damn mount broke and end result axle broke.

So, he decides to inspect damage and forgot I had a cut valve cover when he grabbed the running engine by the sides to peek. His index and middle finger on the right hand got chewed to the bone - he sent me pics of the wounds, pretty disgusting - yet cool to see!

Moral of story 1: Ensure the mount is welded in properly...
Moral of the story 2: If you have a cut valve cover, don't grab engine on the sides when its running...

[passwordjdmef9]

thats shitty. yeah i planned on having an experienced welder weld it in for me. once i get that mount installed i can finish the bay. anyone know off a cf hood for the 91 ef9 front that'll clear a k24?

[RICKYritethere]

http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=67262

Originally Posted by passwordjdmef9

thats shitty. yeah i planned on having an experienced welder weld it in for me. once i get that mount installed i can finish the bay. anyone know off a cf hood for the 91 ef9 front that'll clear a k24?

Sure, if you plan to cut it. Honestly though I think you'll need atleast another 2 inches or so for clearance.

[RICKYritethere]

Originally Posted by blacksheep

regarding welding that mount, the hasport mount is aluminum, the body is steel. I would make sure you weld the mount in with the right filler rod ensure you have enough weld penetration as that is a CRUCIAL mount.

Funny story - Back in the day, I had a CRX with a B16A swap in it, this was before the hasport days. Back then Brian Gillispe owned a junkyard called Honda Auto Salvage from where I got parts - Thats what HAS Stands for in HASport, kiddies.

Anyways, the tranny mount was welded in for the B16A. I sold the car to a guy in Cedar Rapids, I think. He had it for a while and one day on the interstate, the damn mount broke and end result axle broke.

So, he decides to inspect damage and forgot I had a cut valve cover when he grabbed the running engine by the sides to peek. His index and middle finger on the right hand got chewed to the bone - he sent me pics of the wounds, pretty disgusting - yet cool to see!

Moral of story 1: Ensure the mount is welded in properly...
Moral of the story 2: If you have a cut valve cover, don't grab engine on the sides when its running...

Custom Cowl Hood might be required.